Coat-collar.



C. KAUPMAN.

COAT CDLLAR.

APPLIQATION FILED JAN.]4.191Q.

Patented May 3, 1910.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l,

C. KAUPMAN.

com" COLLAR. v APPLICATION FILED JAHM. 1910. 956x710,l Patented May3,1910.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

C. KAUFMAN.

Patented May 3, 191i),

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

mig

v lar to Fig. 1, but. showini; the collar turni-d maintains its propersho .e to a greater de- Ul-ilrlliiiA STIXTS PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES KAUFMAN, Ol? CHICAGO. ILLINOIS.

COAT-COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 3, ,1910.

To all whom it may co'nrrm:

Be it known that l. Cnam-rs KAVIMAN, a citizen of,lhe Uniti-l States,residing at, ('himgo, in lhc count)y of Cook und State of Illinois, haveinvented new and useful Improvements in Cont-Collars, of which the.following is a full, clear, concise, und exact description, referencebeing had to the ac eompanying drawing, forming :i part. of thisspecification.

This invention relates to improvements in cont collars, and particularlyto that type of collar which, u'hcn.turued down, presents the appearanceof the ordinary collar used upon over-couts 'and the lil-re, and whenturned up presents the appearance of what is commonly known us themilitary collar.

The object of the present invention is to chcupen and simplify theconstruction of collars of the above-described type und at the sumo timeto provide a collar which gree than do collars of this style ns usuallyconstructed.

I have illustruted two embodiments o my invention i'u the accompanyingdrawings, in whichlig'ure 1 illustrates the upper portion of a coat withn collar of this style fitted therebo and turned down; l'ig. Q is :iview simiup; Fig. 3 is a view of n fragment. of the collar, showing theside which, uhcn the collar is turned down, forms the under side thereofand which. when the collar is turned up, forms the outside. of the sume;Figs. l and 5 :md Fig. 3 are two front .views und a rear Viewrespectively showing,r successive Steps in the making ofthe constructionwhich is sewod into the roller and nmintnins the Same in proper shape.as well :is furnishing the hinge upon which the coller is supported fromthe neck of the coat.:vr Fig. 7 is a rear view similar to ifigg. (l,showing the stifle-ning structure completed, :is in F 1g. o, but withthe hinged piece or liep turned up; Figs. 8. 9, 10 und 11 show crosssections taken on correspondingl;v numbered lines on Figs. 4, 5, (3 andrespectively; Fig. 12 is a cross sectional View of the collar and theupper portion nl the cout, the section being taken on the line 12-12 ofFig. 2; Fig. 13 is :t cross sectional sicu of the same with the collarturned down, the section being taken on the'line 12)-13 of Fig. 1; Fig.

14 is a rear elevation of n modified form of the collar: Fig. 15 is across section taken on line 1.3-1.3 ol Fig. 14; Fig. 16 is a viewsimilar to Fig. l5 showing the. collar turned down; and Pigs. 17 and 18are sectional views showing the made up collar in its turned-up andruined-down condition, respeotivel) In the several figures of thedrawings like reference numerals refer to the Same parts throughout.

Referring llrst to Figs. 4 and 8, which show the layers of materialemployed in the construction of the stiffening structure, before thesame. have been folded, 15 indientes a strip of blotb, preferably somekind of waterproof material, upon which is laid one or more sheets ofrubber cementing material 16. This connectingA material 1s cut to thesame 'form as the stnp lhut is somewhat smaller thun the latter, so thatthe cloth 15 extends slightly bevondv the edge of the rcmentingmutex-inl 16 all around. Upon this cementing material is laid ny ieee ofstili' lining cloth 17. This ieee 1t is cut to the same 'form and sizeas t e material. 16. By subjecting the whole to ressure and heut. :is bymeans of a heated tren; the two layers of cloth V15 und 17 nre rmlycemented together by the material 1G. This results in u comparativelystill'` und thoroughly vmter-proot structure. Then the collaris made upwith the stiiening structure incorpornted therein the fact that thelatter is water-proof, :1nd thus una'ected by being subjected to rain,is of great importance. The collar loos not sag or lose its shape afterbecoming wet, as would otherwise be the ruse. this being onf.- of thedefects of thi's typo of collar :is heretofore constructed. Thestiffness' resulting from the method employed in making up the structuregives to the collar, when turned up to make it resent. thc appearance ofthe military co lar; firmness and a good appearance and prevents thesaire from dropping down at the bock after thecmt hns'been in use for atime. 'A further nd'vautage 1s that the collar conclearlyshoivn in Fig:4, while at its ends it meets the line of stitchingr 18. These lines ot'stitching, at their ends. almost meet the curved lower edge of thelayers of cloth, but at their medial portion are at a considerable Thenext step inf distance troni the edge. the construction of thestiftci'ung part consists in folding the lower portion Q0 of thestructure back upon the line formed by the stitching 19. As the line l!)curves udp midway between its ends this folding sume the. required formto make the collar lit snugly around the neck of the wearer instead offalling back at the upper edge thereof. The lower line of stitching 18becomes curved, its curvature being greater now than that of the line19. A line of stitching 21 is now run in parallel with the stitching 18,through the double thitkness' formed by folding the structure uponitself,

as plait 21 being thereby formed as shown in Fig. 9. The portion 20 isnow bent down as shown in Figs. 6 and 10 and another row of stitching ofstitching 21 but passing through three thicknesses of `the stiteningYstructure instead of through but two thicknesses. The stitching 22 isplaced as close to the rounded edge formed where the material folds backupon. itself as can be conveniently done.-

The part 20 now forms a flap whichis hinged at one edge on a curved lineto the 'nain or body portion of the stiifening structure, and can beturned up to the position shown in Fig. 11 or down to the position shownin Fig. l0. This flap is Wider at its middle portion than at its endsand is curved upon its outer and inner edges, the curvature beinggreater at the outer edge than at the inner edge. The stitfeningstructure is non' ready to be employed in the making up of the garment.

In Fig. 12, 24 indicates the goods ofthe coat at the neck and 25indicates the lining at this point.

The collar of the gainent, when completed, comprises a. strip 26 ofgoods similar to that of which the coat is made and a second strip 27 ofthe same goods, the stitening structure illustrated in Figs. 4 to 11inclusive being interposed between the strips 2G and 27. The strip .26forms the outer side of tho collar when the latter is turned up, u'hilethe strip 9.7 forms the inner side of the collar at this time. The strip2G is of considerably less width at its medial portion than the strip27, as the latter must follow the shape of the inside of the stili'eningstructure. At the ends of the collar, however, llicse strips 2G and QTtaper off to about the saine. width. The neck oi' the coat is insertedbetween the outer stri Q6 of goods of the collar and the edge ot theflap portion 30- llie stiffening structure.

istorts .i the whole structure, causing the same to as- Q2 is put-on,following the line e y In Fig. 18 the. collar is shown as turned l down,when the rib or edge formed by foldl ing the stitl'ening structure backupon itself becomes the upper edge of thil collar. g It will be seenthat. the stidening part of this collar may be very cheaply and rapidlyl constructed and that the material are conil paratively inexpensive. Itwill he observed lalso that but few ieces are required and l that theHap 20 is su stantiall'v as stilll :is the other parts of the structurethat are placed l in the collar, so that the collar is held up in lposition without any tendency to sag or dr l down at the back. Thepeculiar form whie the stitening structure 1s caused to assume b vfolding and stitching the same in the way above described ada ts it toform the basis upon which the colar is constructed, as it makes thecollar fit the neck of the wearer and stand u in the pro r way at theback when the collar is turne up.

The modified form of collar shown in Figs. 15-18 differs from thatdescribed above in that the lait '2J is turned up instead of being iurnedown as in the previously described construction. It will be rememberedthat in the construction illustrated in Figs. 1 to 13 the flap 20 isturned down after the plait 21 is made, and secured by a row ofstitching 22. The plait 2l, however, may be turned up at the same timethat the flap Q0 is turned down, a row of stitching 28 being then run into maintain the parts of the coi ar in the relative position which theythen assume. The same effect is obtained as with the form of collarfirst described with the exception that'the plait 2l.IIL extends upwardaround the neel: of the wearer instead of downward as in the previousmodification.

lVhile I have described in detail two methods' of forming the stiifeningstructure by the use of a lurslity of layers of fabric cemented togeter, it is evident that a single layer of stiifer material may be used ifdesired, but I refer to employ the 'construction shown and escribed andfind the same satisfactory. A single layer of heavier material would notas readily permit itself to be distort/ed when folded upon the curvedline of stitching 19, and would not, therefore.' as readilyr assume thepeculiar forni which ada ts it to hug to the neck of the wearer.

Hiliving thus described my i1ivention,tvhat I claim as new .-nd desire.to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a combination turn-down and military collar, a stitfeningstructure consisting of a blank of uniform stiffness havinfr thematerial thereof folded longitudinaliy to form an upwardly curved plait,said plait tapering from a substantial width at the center of the plaitto a less width at the ends or' the plait, and .-:ziid plait beingfolded back against the blank, for the purpose set forth. l 2. In acombination turn-down and military collar, a stifleiiing structureconsisting of a blank of uniform stiffness having the material thereoffolded longitudinally to foi'in an upwardlyA -curved plait, said plaittapering from a substantial width at the centeriof the plait to a lesswidth at the ends of the plait; and said plait being folded E' barkagainst the blank and secured' thereto ed back against the blank, forthe purpose set. forth.

4. In a combination turn-down and mili'- tai'y collar, :i stiil'eninprstrnrrtfii'e therefor comprising a strip of iiiaternil of niiiforiiistiffness folded on a curved line extending longitudinally thereof andSecured together and a layer l l l l along another line which is, at itsends,

close to the edge formed by such folding..

formed, lthe flap being whereby a flap is o1" the structure on a joinedto the body curved line.

In a combination turn-down and militari' collar, a stileniiig .structurecomprising a strip of \\'at .i'pi'ool' iiiatei'izil, a Strip ofstiil'ening material otl uniform stillness,

ol' waterproof eenieiiting mi'.-

. ferial interposed between said first and second-inlined strips anduniting,r the same. said stili'enin;r .structure being foldedlongitudinally to forni an upwardly curved plait, .said plait taperingfrom :i substantial width at the eeiiter of t ie plait to a less widthat .the ends of tlie plait., and said plait being folded back againstthe blank, for the purl pose set forth.

In witness` whereof, I have hereunto subscribed my naine in the presenceof two Wit- IISSCS.

CHARLES KAUFMAN.

Witnesses:

CHARLES G. Corn, F min F. Winni.

